Mr. Appliance Of Kane, Kendall, Will, & Dupage

Order Parts for Your Oven

Ovens, gas or electric, come with two different styles of clock controls: mechanical clocks (displays either analog time or digital with rolling digital readout) or electronic range controls (ERC) which have an LED digital time display. You should note the type of clock you have (mechanical or ERC) because some of the solutions listed below apply only to one type or the other. For example, references to "start" and "stop" clean time knobs refer only to mechanical clocks.

Gas ovens have a further distinction in the type of ignition system used. There are three common types: 1) hot surface ignition (the glow bar ignitors), 2) standing pilot ignition where a pilot is always lit and lights the main burner, 3) spark ignited pilot where a piezoelectric spark ignites the pilot which in turn ignites the main burner.

Gas valves can be either two port (one inlet port and one outlet port) or three port (one inlet port and two outlet ports, one for bake and the other for broil). Keep this in mind as you're testing the valves.

• Bad bake ignitor. You can't tell it's bad by looking at it--you must measure amperage. Just because it glows orange, doesn't mean it's good. On round ignitors, look for a current draw of 2.6 to 2.8 amps. On flat ignitors, look for 3.2 to 3.6 amps. Insufficient current draw will not allow the gas valve to open. If unsure how to test, check this tech sheet.
• Bad valve. If ignitor checks out OK, remove power from oven, pull the two wires off the valve and ohm test. Should read two to five ohms. If open, replace valve.
• Pilot is out. Try reigniting pilot. If it goes out again, check 1) gas supply (out of gas, crimped line, etc.), 2) pilot orifice clogged or dirty.
• Pilot flame not wrapping around thermocouple. Reposition the thermocouple bulb so the pilot flame wraps around it.
• If pilot is spark ignited and you're not getting spark to the pilot, replace the spark electrode, spark module, and the ignition wire. These parts are inexpensive enough that it's not worth the trouble to just replace one, replace the entire ignition system as long as you're in there.

• Make the same checks described above for the bake system except applied on the broil system.

• Most likely a bad valve.
• Bad selector switch (less likely).
• Open thermal cutoff.
• Bad ERC.

• Self clean latch bent or misaligned. Inspect for proper alignment to make sure that latch is contacting the latch switch.
• Defective Self clean latch switch. Run continuity check.
• Bad function selector switch. Run continuity check on switch.

• Sluggish ignitor. A good ignitor will fire the oven in less than three minutes. If it takes longer than this, the ignitor is starting to go. Measure ignitor current draw as described above. As the ignitor gets sluggish, it takes longer for it to fire the burner as the oven cycles on and off while the in use thus lowering operating temperature.
• Oven door gasket ripped or torn.

• Defective oven sensor. Run ohm check. Should read between 1700 and 3000 ohms. If outside this range, replace sensor.
• Defective oven thermostat.

• Defective ERC. Check for error code in display. If error code given, check against manufacturer's code explanations in owner's manual or tech data sheet inside oven control panel.
• Misaligned self clean latch. Disassemble oven to manually free latch and realign or replace as needed.