Electric Ovens

Order Parts for Your Oven

Ovens, gas or electric, come with two different styles of clock controls: mechanical clocks (displays either analog time or digital with rolling digital readout) or electronic range controls (ERC) which have an LED digital time display. You should note the type of clock you have (mechanical or ERC) because some of the solutions listed below apply only to one type or the other. For example, references to "start" and "stop" clean time knobs refer only to mechanical clocks.

• Bake element burnt out. Unplug oven, remove bake element and run continuity check on element. Should read in the range of 20 to 40 ohms. .
• Burnt or loose wire to bake element.
• Bad function selector switch. Run continuity check on switch.
• Mechanical clock "start" or "stop" knob pushed in.
• Open oven sensor.
• Bad electronic range control (ERC) board.

• Broil element burnt out. Unplug oven, remove broil element and run continuity check on element. Should read in the range of 20 to 40 ohms.
• Burnt or loose wire to broil element.
• Bad function selector switch. Run continuity check on switch.
• Mechanical clock "start" or "stop" knob pushed in.
• Open oven sensor.
• Bad ERC.

• Bad function selector switch. Run continuity check on switch.
• Mechanical clock "start" or "stop" knob pushed in.
• Open oven sensor.
• Bad ERC.
• Thermal cutout switch open.
• Bad voltage at oven electrical receptacle. 240v should be measured at the oven receptacle from L1 to L2. 120v should be measured from L1 to neutral and from L2 to neutral. Check circuit breaker to make sure it's not tripped. See this diagram for a three-prong range outlet. For a four-prong range outlet, see this diagram.

• Self clean latch bent or misaligned. Inspect for proper alignment to make sure that latch is contacting the latch switch.
• Defective Self clean latch switch. Run continuity check.
• Bad function selector switch. Run continuity check on switch.

• Open clock motor winding (mechanical clocks). Run continuity check on clock motor. Replace entire clock if bad.
• Burnt wire or bad connection supplying power to clock. Check voltage at clock motor.
• Defective ERC (on ovens with LED digital display

• Defective oven sensor. Run ohm check. Should read between 1700 and 3000 ohms. If outside this range, replace sensor.
• Defective oven thermostat.
• Worn or torn oven door gasket.
• Bad voltage at oven electrical receptacle. 240v should be measured at the oven receptacle from L1 to L2. 120v should be measured from L1 to neutral and from L2 to neutral. Diagrams here for three-prong and four-prong outlets. Check circuit breaker to make sure it's not tripped.

• Defective thermostat.
• Defective oven relay. Oven relays were primarily used in ovens made by Frigidaire. This includes Kenmore ovens made by Frigidaire.

• Defective oven sensor. Run ohm check.
• Defective oven thermostat.

• Defective ERC. This would affect ovens that have automatic door latching in self clean (no lever), such as Jenn Air's and some other Maytag brands. Check for error code in display. If error code given, check against manufacturer's code explanations in owner's manual or tech data sheet inside oven control panel.
• Misaligned self clean latch. Disassemble oven to manually free latch and realign or replace as needed.

Fault Code on ERC

For some inexplicable reason, appliance manufacturers carefully guard the meanings or their fault codes. And to make it harder for techs to catch on to the codes, manufacturers will vary the meaning of the codes among model numbers. There are no standard fault code meanings, even within the same brand.